It's about life - not "lifestyle"
|THE SURF TRUNK GALLERY
|I'm leaving this photo full-size: check it out!
Soft cotton, an organic wood button closure, minimal velcro in the fly, and beautiful stripes around the legs. These things were great. Life was getting less organic in many places around 1976, but not where I came from. These trunks are tiny! That might not even be a 4 inch inseam, compared to 8 inches or more today in 2002. I would imagine the material was fairly see-through when wet, but that wouldn't have bothered anybody in 1976.
I was living on Malibu Road then, surfing Malibu, Zuma, and points north. You could still sleep in a vehicle on the side of PCH back then, as long as you weren't around houses. County Line was a favorite. I could sleep in my van there, and then surf whatever waves looked best on the drive back down to Malibu proper.
Born and raised a point wave surfer, Zuma was always a place for bodysurfing for me. It was during this period that Zuma started getting a lot of surfboards. I responded by getting a Morey Boogie kit in 1977 or 1978. It may be hard to imagine today, but they were still so new that they were not only accepted but actively inquired about. I would still standup surf Zuma, but my best waves there were on the Boogie. I even rode the Boogie at First Point Malibu at the onset of a good south swell once. That was fun, but Malibu is made for standing up like no other wave except maybe the Waikiki breaks in Honolulu, and that's how I spent my time there.
|Copyright (C) 2002. All rights reserved.