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THE SURF TRUNK GALLERY
HANG TEN NYLON
1977
It was summer, and Natural Progression Surfboards in Malibu was having a sale. I wanted to get into some nylon trunks again, both for the wear factor and the comfort factor - no more rash. It was a summer of Hobie cats, surfing, bodysurfing, and my first bodyboard. College coursework too.

Professional surfing was in its infancy but star-making machinery was in full swing. You can see "DOGTOWN AND Z-BOYS" for more. Longboards were all but gone, Third Point Malibu was the arena.

I got these from J Riddle at that classic shop, upstairs, overlooking the pier and point. I seem to remember that he had a pair just like them. Did I see him wearing them in the shop or on the beach? I can't recall - could have been either place. It was a small town back then.

Actually, his wouldn't have been "just like them", since he was "the King of Malibu" in that era. Trafton and Hilton were good too, but I have no memory of seeing them surf the Bu. Riddle was center stage. Guys like him had a square Hang Ten patch sewn on their trunks, gifts from the company in honor of their ability in the water. This was the surf world before million dollar contracts and all-expense paid boat trips to the end of the earth.

The patch, of course, meant much, much more.
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