Above: All ages on thoroughly modern retro boards. This guy was on a traditional fish. The photo didn't capture the action or skill - this is the inside section.
There was another good surfer out on a very narrow 70's style board. It looked like something out of Derrick Hynd's article on power surfing in the Big SURFER magazine from July. It turned out that I didn't get any photos of the narrow board guy. He went fast, made sharp angled turns, and obviously had a lot of skill - but it was tough to follow. It broke up any sense of flow. Some may argue that flow and power don't go together, but I'd counter with that being a fallacy of the modern Big Move surf culture. I think it has more to do with the waves being ridden. A simple California point break doesn't require the same moves as hairy Sunset Beach. |
