What's that, you say? The surf was big, the surf was good, but there was no damage to Southern California as far as you heard?
Guess again, friend. This is the sight I came home to Thursday, August 1, 2002. It was one week to the day that the first waves from Hurricane Douglas began to really hit northern Los Angeles County, closely followed by a swell from Hurricane Elida. To my memory this has been the best run of South Swell since that memorable summer of 1997. Even the water warmed up, and has stayed warm. An outstanding experience.
But at what cost? To take full advantage of it requires a bit of dedication, and at a certain stage of life that dedication requires some major league irresponsibility. There is work to do out there, things to keep up, money to be made sometimes, and blowing it all off "until later" doesn't seem to get the job done |
