It's about life - not "lifestyle"
|EMPTY WAVE GALLERY
|It's just barely empty when I took this shot, but that counts. We're in the New Millenium now, and nostalgic comments notwithstanding, things are different. Would you be shocked if I told you over 10 million people live within an hour and a half drive of this break? That it's a public beach, viewable by every car which drives by on a four-lane road? That the freaking place has a webcam all it's own?
Once you realize, for whatever reason, you are past the time in your life when surf performance might get you love or glory, you are faced with new roads to travel. Who you are as a person will determine just how many options you have. Some see nothing. Others see new, far different, horizons. For some the roads of possibility fan out like spiderwebs, glistening with morning dew, sparkling and enticing.
Thes best surfer in the world could have surfed this particular small wave, to the best of his or her ability, and no photos would make a magazine page. The required elements aren't there. Certainly the surf was bigger and better elsewhere. Influence can't be exerted without receptors, and this day just didn't have them: school was in session, the crowds of summer were gone, and the bulk of the surfers around were either college students or working guys who either lucked out or who have focused in on this break for the express purpose of catching the handful of days each year like this.
It isn't some boat-only South Pacific reef pass, but it'll do. And remember: there's one just like it near you...wherever you are.
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