It's about life - not "lifestyle"
|EMPTY WAVE GALLERY
CALIFORNIA GREEN ROOM
|I'm almost sorry to say it, but the surfing world has gone nuts. It really has nothing to do with industry economics, territorial rights (which is a bullshit concept anyway), or sex, drugs, or rock and roll.
There are just too many people competing for too few resources. Travel isn't going to be the solution for crowd problems at heavily populated locations. That continues the trend to equate money with performance. I could go on and on about this notion, but why mar a perfectly good corner of cyberspace so artfully decorated with this photo?
I suspect, deep in my heart, that the answer for overcrowding in the surf zone may lay closer than we want to think. Have you ever been walking the beach on some blown out afternoon, and caught a glimpse of a nice hollow section? Nobody in the water, maybe nobody else even on the beach? The water is Springtime cold, all the waves are closing out, and the wind blows so strongly it sandblasts your face if you try to sit? That's the perfect case for heading to some tropical resort, for following the time-honored surf travel trail.
But that gets harder and harder to do as the years go by. It's nonsense to say you can be a 40 or 50 year old surfer and not have made huge sacrifices to live as unencumbered as a teenager. There is a flow to life that we can fight and fool, but can never beat. This territory isn't about choice, it's about sacrifice, about choosing which parts of your life you are going to limit.
Next time it gets you down, take a look at those ignored nasty little pockets that pop up and vanish like mushroom-capped gnomes. Think about what you could do to put yourself in there....
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