It's about life - not "lifestyle"
JULY 25, 2002
Ah, Malibu! The two photos above were taken from the pier. This was a beautiful morning, with a rising tide and no wind. Given the jungle-look of the lineup and the fact most waves host several riders, it's easy to forget the fact that this place really isn't a museum. Absolute first-rate surfing takes place on a daily basis. It gets overlooked when the first thing we look at is the massive number of dots in the water.
Shortboards still exist at Malibu, although you don't normally see them this far down (First Point). I was looking at everybody who rode, and through the viewfinder all that registered with this guy was "short board".When the photos came back I realized just how short a board he was riding.
No matter what, the best of Malibu surfing remains the art of longboarding.

Two examples: same guy, same wave.
Copyright (C) 2002. All rights reserved.

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