It's about life - not "lifestyle"
JULY 25, 2002
|Ah, Malibu! The two photos above were taken from the pier. This was a beautiful morning, with a rising tide and no wind. Given the jungle-look of the lineup and the fact most waves host several riders, it's easy to forget the fact that this place really isn't a museum. Absolute first-rate surfing takes place on a daily basis. It gets overlooked when the first thing we look at is the massive number of dots in the water.|
|Shortboards still exist at Malibu, although you don't normally see them this far down (First Point). I was looking at everybody who rode, and through the viewfinder all that registered with this guy was "short board".When the photos came back I realized just how short a board he was riding.|
|No matter what, the best of Malibu surfing remains the art of longboarding.
Two examples: same guy, same wave.
|Copyright (C) 2002. All rights reserved.