It's about life - not "lifestyle"
First Point, Malibu, April 2003. The first "real" south swell of the year was petering out by this morning. What was unusual was seeing Malibu Creek emptying here instead of up near Third Point. I miss some years - the last time I saw this was I think after the winter storms of 1969.
There are a lot more people in Southern California now than back then, and a lot of their waste gets channeled down to Malibu Creek after some level of treatment. On the right is the lifeguard tower and the Adamson House.
Radical lagoon drainage. Some form of power or communications wires are exposed, as well as pvc piping. The creekbank is right up to the Adamson House fence.
Malibu Creek draining out into First Point. Most microbes in the water began as Taco Bell burritos in Woodland Hills or Agoura. Locals only!
Despite the water quality issues, Malibu remains a classic wave with top-notch performers. The heavy presence of longboards and the acknowledgement of the concept of style makes this break one of the most leash-free in California. Many regulars consider mysto rashes, skin condtions, and occasional violent illness as a natural part of surfing here.
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