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| vagabondsurf.com It's about life - not "lifestyle" |
| Bodysurfing California Indian Summer Day |
| The first two shots are in sequence. I don't know who the rider is. He's a bodysurfer, right? I'm not inclined to name the beach, either, although it certainly isn't any kind of secret. Pretend it was your favorite beach, and you caught it in early October with a fair crowd but enough rising swell that there was room for everyone, at least once they got caught inside a few times. Looks like it could be 1952, but it isn't. |
| This one (Above) looks like it could be Hawaii or Indonesia. The bodysurfer is doing what, in surfing days of yore, we used to call "taking gas". Without the burden of surf or bodyboards, bodysurfers can just tuck and tumble or dig in and pull out - it's really quite nice to be free. |
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