|(LEFT) Same camera, same lens, and taken from the same seat on the beach. See how much greater the action seems? To be honest, this wave was a better photo subject: heaving, sand-sucking, closeout. The bodyboarder faces petit destruction.
Of course, this is also where the bodyboard can become an essential piece of surf equipment. Slogging pitchouts can become fun. I've become lost for weeks at a time chasing moments in the barrel. Why fight it out with the masses at the best beaches, perfecting snap turns based on the velocity of the spray which buffets paddlers? Same swell can provide mindblasting impressions of clean green walls, reflections of sand bottom ripples, baitfish high in the cresting wave ahead of the rapidly falling curtain.